Month: October 2021

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.35
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : What a difference a day makes- from yesterdays embarrassing misery. Crowded but folks were spread out from the north end to the dox. I opted for dox with only 4 or 5 of us in the pod. the first hour was pretty damn good waist high little peelers – empty for a sunday. then it got a little more crowded and started to taper off- but still – all in all – good session
Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : minus*
Board : 95
Notes : Single worst performance of my modern surfing career. Revolting – vile and vulgar sub-kook like showing in the water- I missed every wave I paddled for. I should have been arrested by the surf police and my board physically take off of me and ordered never to enter the water again. how is it possible to surf SO long and still have a day where I surf  so abysmally? my poor wave selection and take offs were bottomless – as soon as I thought I scraped the base of the barrel I found I could go a few levels lower. At one point I looked up at the mostly blue sky and clouds formed into a visage of the great Duke Kahanamoku – who looked down on me and was weeping. Soon misty words came out of Duke’s stern cloud face “what have I wrought?” Of note – a crazy jumping spinning thresher shark was non stop in the line up – jumping out of the water constantly like it it was on meth or something…
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : paddled everywhere – from boat dox all the way over to Taco Bell then back to panda bar then finally settled on a small – very -inside right at the creek. got about six little rides that had some open soft shoulders – not the greatest sesh of all time … but still
Notes :
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : the creek was working – but I decided to hit the dox- only two people there. the first half hour was good- small and soft but nice little lines. then it just dropped dead flat. paddled over to the creek but it had also fallen off- then in about 90 seconds a massive fog bank rolled in- really thick – I could barely see the shore. got out and by the time I had desuited and pulled out of the b lot the fog bank had already rolled on by… and out to sea
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Foggy and chest high at the dox with pretty big closeouts. the crowd was thick with kooks so I felt very unsafe. I got some great 400+ foot rides though – long for Linda. I the end I got out more out of intuition of an unsafe feeling –
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