LTB

Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.35
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 86 green dove
Notes : Straight to Taco Bell right on the king tide swamp out. at 715 am it was a 7′ tide and still 2 hours to go for it to come up to a its 9foot max at 9am. Surfed the best I have yet on the little green potato chip – really feeling more comfortable on angling in with it. I really need to pop up with my feet NOWHERE NEAR the back of the deck or else I lose control . so stepping right into the middle of the board- not a bad session – especially given the insane crowd
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