Month: December 2021

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 86 green dove
Notes : A more or less non eventful session that started out at boat dox and had me migrating to the creek due to crowd at the dox- some here and there bites at the apple – but overall just wobbly and kooky on my get ups with the green dove
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **+
Board : 86green dove
Notes : Clear blue skies. Windless. relative glass. cold as fuck -56 water temp. but it was okay at dox- good vibe with J , C , M and a familiar crew. got a few set waves – the problem was my take offs and popups – which were a bit of a shamble – however a number of waves were groomed enuf for me to recover and then make the wave work – good session
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LMN

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 86 green dove
Notes : Pretty flat from North to South. Both lots relatively empty. It was clear – slight offshore and more or less glassy. I walked up to creeps where there was a pod of 4 surfers. Indeed a wave was coming by – a little left peak that was not bad – so I suited up. Out in the pod with the others I got a few when I spied MSUP paddling towards me. He came near me and whispered – trying to keep the others from hearing “Pat go just about 100 yards further north- there is a nice right there – no one on it.” I took his advice – and damn if he wasn’t right. A much better little peak. In 20 minutes I got 3 or 4 nice little chip shot wedges . S showed up which was nice – then two others – my mojo fumbled and all of a sudden I couldn’t really catch the little wedges – bad wave selection and positioning. anyway – the secret spot for the morning – and good while it lasted…
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LTB

Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 86 green dove
Notes : slightly overcast. windless clean to glass. pretty damn good. little to no crowd. peaks from the north end to boat dox. sure there were closeouts – but if you chose well it was very nice indeed. the epoxy is so weird – taking off on a wave it feels like you are floating ON TOP of the surface of the cresting wave – but once you get used to that awkwardness it’s pretty unique surfing experience…
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LTB

Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 86 green dove
Notes : Back at the Taco Bell. not really as happening as yesterday. my first wave was a nice little right – but it was kind of downhill from there. still I felt more comfortable on the small board – just surfed mostly poorly overall…
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LTB

Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.35
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 86 green dove
Notes : Straight to Taco Bell right on the king tide swamp out. at 715 am it was a 7′ tide and still 2 hours to go for it to come up to a its 9foot max at 9am. Surfed the best I have yet on the little green potato chip – really feeling more comfortable on angling in with it. I really need to pop up with my feet NOWHERE NEAR the back of the deck or else I lose control . so stepping right into the middle of the board- not a bad session – especially given the insane crowd
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LTB

Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 86 green dove
Notes : Another big ole lumpy and dumpy hi tide. I was surprised at how kook crowded it was at 715 am at the creek. I stayed there for a little while trying to get a little bite of the apple but there were far to many folk launching themselves blind into the wave or floundering wide eyed in the impact zone half on and half off a chewed up wave storm. Finally I paddled down to north of Taco Bell and it was empty – you could here crickets. it was a long wait – but the wave was worth it – got two of them on the l’il ole green potato chip…
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LTB

Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 86 green dove
Notes : Clear and clean. Still swamped by the high tide – once again it feels like the hi tides have been every morning since September – I can’t remember a low tide. There were still kinda largish (for me) crumblers – in between the close outs- that had a wide open face. Specifically there was an open left that was more by the creek – then the open Right was more over by Taco Bell – which is where I waited. I finally found a groove with the green board and managed about 3 okay waves in which I felt comfortable on the board – so good sesh on the short board
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