Month: January 2022

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clear and clean. nice little knee highs at the dox with only about six people. first hour was all threes . then more folk showed up – wind picked up and waves went away. good while it lasted
Stats/Video :

LMBIZZY

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Clear and windless with small knee highs at the dox- some occasional waist high. Got out at 845 to attend the Memorial Service for Izzy – the light of Linda Mar – who passed over thanksgiving unexpectedly. (I had surfed with him maybe a few days prior) Big turnout with memorable words – especially by his longtime friend and Big Chill Out compatriot (and fellow east coaster) Greg Cochran. Then everyone went down to boatdox and paddled out – most with flowers – I had mine stuck down my front zip. The waves had gotten bigger. A whale was spotted. The circle was big. Indeed I believe it was the furthest I had ever been out at the dox. Way past the silver  camper that sits on the road above the dox cliffs which marks the informal “marker” for where waves crest. We all kept the circle as best we could- Gregg got in the middle and actually had Izzys ashes. He released them and they scattered in the wind and onto the ocean surface as everyone through in their flowers. Then a joyous screaming of his name and splashing of water up to the sky. So it goes…
Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : overcast and flattish on the south end. however – glassy windless and a  nice right and left open for business. some great rides and surfed well with J, and L and A and R in the mix. then wind picked up – offshore – then it started raining. got out as E was going in. after changing and as I was about to pull out she returned with j carrying her board- board flipped in the wind and gashed her forehead- j administered – I gave some first aid kit supplies – “it’s like a jungle out there it makes me wonder how we keep from going under…”
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : overcast with kind of mushy knee to waist high thingy bobbies at the dox. I didn’t have many waves but a couple of them were very nice little meandering crumblers- especially my last wave – which seemed to stay open for a nice little piece of action… damn its cold also…
Notes :
Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length :am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95 magic dove
Notes : Hot damn – what a difference a day makes. It was still king high tide – however there was a bowled up A frame just a tad north of the A lot pump house.  crisp and clear – not too many folks on the peak – manageable I would say- T and M and few other familiar faces. It would bowl up and offer a right and left – I stuck to the right and surfed well and managed a few outside set screamers – at least “screamers” as far as I’m concerned. Back in the saddle…
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