LMB 4/3+

Location : LMB 4/3+
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ***+
Board : Holy shit – almost the double 4’s. Definite swell pick up.12-14 at the dox- double that on the creek peak. I stayed way outside and a little North of the pod – hoping for that set wave that swings wide. This is the spot I usually plant myself in when there is a swell. I just feel safer – but it’s a longer wait. With a crowd I hate planting myself right in the Pod – you never know what will happen when a set roles through and folk panic and try to scratch over the peak- and others just dive bomb into a pile of soft top carnage. I definitely scored three  very nice set waves – but that as two hours in the water. Alot of false starts – plus a number of aborts at the last mili-second. I did blow any number of waves that was well positioned for- I think because I was way outside and people started screaming my name cause I was the only one in position. I was paddling to get into it as they were paddling towards me to scratch over – performance anxiety – very frustration. But those three were real good and I surfed them well…
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