Month: July 2025

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.55
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL MD
Notes : Very soft and mellow dox. Easy going little waves. I surfed okay – so I had a good session…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : AM/1.45
Rating : ***+
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : NICE glassy peak at the creek. Crowded – but a nice mellow crowd of good long boarders. I surfed like rubbish – but what can you do? You can’t have ice cream with every meal. That’s why parents call it a “special treat”…
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Location : TOPANGA 4/4
Time/Length : am/1.35
Rating : 4
Performance : 4
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Going out on a limb here and giving it the double 4’s. MOSTLY BECAUSE I SURFED REALLY WELL. Maybe – my best performance of the whole trip. I paddled out into the outside pod as soon as I got in and was rewarded with a nice outside set wave. Went back towards the inside and got a number of nice ones on the inside. Last wave was a really solid- very inside-close to shore – but it stayed open and I surfed it really well. Getting out there was a pro surfer on the wave behind me and MAN did he rip apart his inside wave – on some ancient yellowed longboard pintail that he rode like butter. Getting out was rocky and treacherous. Also, there is still alot of weird debris washing ashore from the fires. For some reason, alot of rusty spring metal coils – that were super nasty. Gina grabbed one of the coils that had some how fused together with some shells to make this weird “pamela Wallace” type sculpture. (it’s on the hood of the car in the vid.) That afternoon we went to alice waters luch at the HAMMER and a great Hammer exhibits (Noah Davis!!) Fsrmers market near Stanleys’ Drygoods. Los Feliz book signing of Toby Huss new phot book with Hartper Q and A (missed it by a little bit) Then restored showing of APLPHAVILLE at Los Feliz theater. Cut to the vid…
Stats/Video : https://player.vimeo.com/video/1100783003?h=132e5c01a0

Location : TOPANGA
Time/Length : AM/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : TOPANGA LOOKED TOO STEEP SO WE HEADED TO THE BU’. But the Bu’ was still a no go with epic waves connecting from way way outside almost to thye pier. They were.’t overhead jacked up just shoulder high – but machine like in their perfection. Plus the lot was full of ALOT of male bullies – just spewing SHIT SHIT SHIT. We left BACK to Topanga where the tide had shifted and had anoither fun session. It had tapered off so wasn’t so steep on the inside anymore. That afternoon we went to Griffith Observatory – last time Tina and I were at GO was at night – years ago- when Lammy still was in LA…
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Location : Topanga
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Back to Topanga. Malibia deep purple and firing with perfectly grromed waves being surfed by the cream of the crop – si it was a hard no-go. Topanga was okay – long waits for the insiders. That aftrenoon went up to the Topanga hut with a big pack lunch – Harper showed up and we had a grand old time
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Location : MONDO
Time/Length :AM/2.10
Rating : 4
Performance : 4
Board :94 AL
Notes : Headed early straight down to Mondo- another score day. Very nice mellow – with occasional sets. It picked up as we were out there. Lots of great waves that we both got. Sometimes – the wave was such that I would take off on it outside and go right and Gina would grsb it a little further on and go left. Had a few great reforms going left- then riding a nice right on a reform – wave time on one wave was 42 seconds. After we met Tina in the middle of Westwood in a neighborhood called THERANGELOUS. A place called TASTE IF IRAN great good and fantastic vibe – interesting section of LA
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Location : MONDO
Time/Length :AM/2.0
Rating : 4/4
Performance : 4/4
Board : AL 94
Notes : Malibu was firing so we meandered down the coast and finally settled on Mondo. First time surfing that break. Almost like the cowells of Ventura. Wide open break – with inside and outside breaks. It was super great – a slow moving soft and crumbly wave- with occasional sets coming through. Very mellow crowd- older and beginners sprinkled in with great longbaorders. The wave had a nice re form – – opening up into a entire inside section. Great sesh!
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Location : TOPANGA
Time/Length : am/1.35
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : AL 94
Notes : We made it down to LA – and this AM G and I hit Topanga. Malibu was way too crowded. At first, Topanga was not at all crowded then it filled up. I was slow to start but finally found a groove – but by that time it was too late as it filled up with alot of good longboarders – so finding an unridden section was slim Pickens…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : RL 94
Notes : Well finally hit the mark with the board. It was a bit wild and wooly at the dox – a little chopped up but some nice sized wedges. Finally was able to navigate the narrowness of the board on these waves – and feel comfortable riding it – likely b/c of the size
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