Location : LMB
Time : AM
Length : 1.15
Rating : ***+
PERF : **
Board : 92
Notes : Wow- had some size. overcast and sort of stormy wedges. the right was working at the creek. i decided to hit boatdox w/ T2. Some nice drops into longish lines. cut to the video.
Stats/Video : https://vimeo.com/140144777
Author: aspat
LM
Location : LM
Time : AM
Length : 1
Rating : **
PERF : *
Board : 92
Notes : Looked better than it surfed. Clean but shifty and weak/pudgy waves. Couldn’t really connect.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5250
LM
Location : LM
Time : AM & PM
Length : 2.15
Rating : ***
PERF : **
Board : 92
Notes : Creek peak again- clean and glassy knee to shoulder. T said i got sixth place at the biog chill out – dead last as i predicted- but get a trophy nonetheless for making it to the finals
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5220
LM
Location : LM
Time : AM & PM
Length : 3.5
Rating : ***
PERF : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Well it was the big chill out today – 25th anniversary. My heat started at 930 clean and sunny but lumpy and dumpy. I lucked out position wise and got my four waves fairly quickly- well before the two horns signaling 5 minutes left in the heat. I advanced to the semis which happened at 1130. Tide filled in making for better conditions and more open faces. Again I surfed well but wasn’t sure… About 45 minutes later they put the results up on the board – I inched into the finals At 4pm. The final crop of six were all way above my cut- born and bred year long surfers from the time they were knee high. Standing on shore waiting for the two horn blast signaling we could begin paddling out was memorable. In my red jersey holding my board with the other guys I realized I was fulfilling some long deep fantasy… From a time when I was maybe 15 or 16 and picking up surfer magazine in a lower east side magazine store and dreaming about some soul surfing rock and roll California utopia. Two blasts and we six paddled out- the surf had gotten bigger. In the lineup the speakers suddenly started went from some hot tuna live jam into floods wish you were here. Fuck if I wasn’t in some kind of heaven. I was positioned well for my first wave – a monster- the others said yea- but I wasn’t outside enough – too deep – going left I clutched my rail thinking I could make the drop and seize the glory. Alas- it was not to be – the wave blasted me ass over end and worked me to the bottom.two more semi okay rides. Then a fourth and final redemption ride solid left ending with a spin switch foot. First done. The others were patient and rocked it with nose perching perfection ride after ride. They all seemed like pros to me. T and H – better surfers than me would be lucky with 4th or 5th. All in all just a glorious day…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5188 http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5191 http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5200
LM
Location : LM
Time : AM
Length : 1
Rating : ***
PERF : *
Board : 92
Notes : Clean sunny and windless. Very shifty however-paddled from creek to Taco Bell lookin for sections but I couldn’t really connect
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5146
LM
Location : LM
Time : AM
Length : 1.30
Rating : ***+
PERF : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Hot Dang. Didn’t look like much at first from the B lot- but it surfed real well. foggy- mostly glass micro peaks near taco bell – truth be told the peak is more lined up with the creek than TB. The left stayed open for business longer than the right IMO
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5116
LM
Location : LM
Time : AM
Length : 1.15
Rating : ***
PERF : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Taco Bell peak was gone. Action was further north up the beach – near volleyballs/hotels. glassy and clean but rather weak knee to waisters. Lots of wildlife. Two whalse gettin jiggy on the outside w/half breaches that caused quite a splash. Pad of dolphins. Sea lion surface with a giant half eaten bloody fish in its maw…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5098
LM
Location : LM
Time : AM
Length : 1.45
Rating : ***
PERF : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Taco Bell peak still holding- though smaller and not as well groomed as monday. chop from onshore.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5073.
LM
Location : LM
Time : AM
Length : 1.30
Rating : ****
PERF : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Pretty dang good. TB Peak came through-cross offshore kept it open. Waiting outside paid off b/c a couple with more size would push through every 10 minutes or so. Those larger ones broke left and right -T and I were at the peak for one of them -he went right and I covered the left wing
Stats/Video : Funny the rides seemed much longer than the stats show http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5040
LM
Location : LM
Time : AM
Length : 2.15
Rating : **
PERF : **
Board : 92
Notes : A micro peak by taco bell. in retrospect should have gone further north and waited out the lulls for something with more size.
Stats/Video : The stats correctly suggest quantity w/out quality http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=4999.